McCall’s Jacket and Pant Easy Knit Wardrobe

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Pati writes about making this McCall’s Jacket and Pant Easy Knit Wardrobe pattern twice in very different fabrics:

McCall's Jacket and Pant Easy Knit Wardrobe

I wanted to design an outfit that I call edgy classic. Jackets and vests worn open give you a slimming vertical line. The jacket/vest in our Knit Wardrobe pattern M7260 is an easy classic lapel style in two lengths. It is straight and just comes to the center front with no buttons. The sleeveless top has an asymmetrical hemline and the pants have a cuff. Of course, you could sew this simple pull-on pant without a cuff if you’d prefer.

I sewed TWO very different looking outfits from this same pattern. Simple lines with few details allow the fabrics to make the statement.


THE FABRICS FOR McCall’s Jacket and Pant Easy Knit Wardrobe:

The black jacket fabric is beautiful! The blond color in the print helps make it work on me because it ties in with my hair color. I will wear it on New Years.

The black pull-on pants are made from two layers of Sheer polyester Georgette with a cotton rib cuff. Georgette is so easy to sew. I didn’t have enough black in my stash, so the inside layer is navy. I made them reversible so I could wear the navy side with the navy top in the other outfit.

The asymmetrical top is made from a black polyester jersey.

 

I love to combine colors that are not often combined like gray and brown. The caramel coat is a wool flannel. The gray pants are silk and wool. I also like to combine textures. The top is a navy mesh knit made double layer and lined to the edges at neck and armholes. My friend Helen made a double-layer mesh top and you couldn’t see through it at all! Mine didn’t quite work out. You could see everything. I have a navy camisole that I wear under it. There are side seam pockets. This style jacket is my new favorite. Simple lines, unlined, easy to sew!

The guide sheet includes tips for fitting the tissue. Since the top is a full front and back pattern piece, we added this tip:

The alterations for the top are the same as for the vest/jacket. However, you are working with a full front and full back. Cut the top pattern pieces apart on the venter front and center back lines. Pin back and front together and tissue fit. After fitting one half, do the same alterations to the other half; tape back together for cutting. 

Also, since this is a sleeveless top, if you need to do a full bust adjustment, first check to see if the tissue lower front armhole is covering your “fluff.” If it’s not, use the Y-Bust alteration. First read about it here. When you understand how to determine the amount needed at that spot, then you can alter.

McCall's Jacket and Pant Easy Knit Wardrobe Y-FBA

When finished altering both sides of the full front and back sections, tape the center front and backs together. There may be spacing on the center back. Fill those in and you are ready to cut!

I like this tip for the vest. This is one good reason to fit-as-you sew!

McCall's Jacket and Pant Easy Knit Wardrobe

We like the look of a narrower shoulder on a vest. Before pinning facings to armhole, try on the vest. If you’d like the shoulder seams to be narrower, decide how much. You will then sew the facing to the armhole deeper at the shoulder tapering back to the regular seam at the notches. 

 

The leg bands or cuffs can be made from self-fabric with elastic added or from ribbing. The pattern includes instructions for both.

McCall's Jacket and Pant Easy Knit Wardrobe pant cuff tip

 

  1. Stitch seam in LEG BAND (17), matching notches. Press seam allowances open.
  2. With wrong sides together, fold leg band along fold line. Press lightly. Pin raw edges together.
  3. Pin leg band to lower edge of pants, matching notches, squares to side seams and seam to inseam, stretching leg band to fit. Baste.

 


I used PerfectFuse Medium on the front facing and under collar on the carmel wool and PerfectFuse Light on the upper collar. I used bias strips of Light on the hem allowances. I used PerfectFuse Light on the facing and under collar of the tapestry jacket. The fabric was heavy so I didn’t put anything on the upper collar.

 

FUSING TIP:

Before you fuse to the facings, place the pattern on each piece and move the fabric to fit the pattern. Then fuse. This tip is from Jackets for Real People.

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The under collar is bias, which makes it easy to scoot back to the shape of the tissue before fusing.


FINISHING TOUCHES: ACCESSORIES

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I may look for a scarf with caramel, navy and gray in it. Wouldn’t that be the find of the year? I feel the outfit needs something.

I had this necklace for the black outfit. Perfect for a night out!

 

 

 

20 Responses
  • Paula
    December 15, 2016

    Very nice outfits. Question for you. Since the pattern is for knits and you made jackets and the pants from a woven, what adjustments were needed? Did you cut a larger size?

    • Pati Palmer
      December 16, 2016

      Paula, Scroll down for my reply to your question. I thought that others might like to know as well.

  • Yvonne Hunt
    December 15, 2016

    I love the look of this pattern and hope to use it for my. Winter wardrobe, can it be made in woven also if not I will use wool stretch.

    • Pati Palmer
      December 16, 2016

      It is for both knits and wovens. Scroll down where I pasted the intro from the guidesheet!

  • Robyn
    December 15, 2016

    Hi Pati,
    Love that you are taking a pattern and making it work for different occasions. I miss you
    doing that (magazine) and will buy this pattern for sure. This has been a busy year for
    me and it appears for you, Melissa and Marta too. Hope to see you at Sewing Camp
    this year.

    Love your choices of fabric, it works, please keep showing your patterns and choice of
    fabrics.

    • Pati Palmer
      December 16, 2016

      I miss doing the magazine also, but our blog posts will be more regular than the magazine was. It was a huge job! See you in Camp this summer. Hope all is well.

  • Maggie deegan
    December 15, 2016

    Yet another classic winner with superb tips. This outfit has endless potential. Well done.

    • Pati Palmer
      December 16, 2016

      Thanks. I want Helen to post her version of the jacket. It is very different from these! Happy Holidays.

  • Elaine Earnshaw
    December 16, 2016

    I was uncertain about getting this pattern but after seeing you in the outfits and your fabric choices has made me decide to get the pattern and make it. I hope I look as good as you!

    • Pati Palmer
      December 16, 2016

      Sometimes a simple design can become fabulous if you think through your fabrics. Make it fit and it will look great on you I’m sure. Good luck!

  • Audrey
    December 16, 2016

    Both outfits are lovely. The garments in this pattern have simple lines so what a wonderful opportunity to use unique fabrics. Great idea to make the cuffed pants out of two layers of lighter fabric so that they are reversible. I may do this for some pants I am making for a travel wardrobe.

    • Pati Palmer
      December 16, 2016

      I just looked at your blog. You are a very creative person. Yes, the pants made reversible for travel would be fun. The cuff will keep them from dragging on the floor when in the airplane bathroom. I only wear narrow pants when I fly, but this would work too. This may not be a very appropriate comment, but for me it is so true! Ha.

  • Linda Smith
    December 16, 2016

    Did you use tapestry for the jacket? I purchased a beautiful tapestry fabric at an estate sale and have been looking for a good easy pattern for a jacket. It is heavy, so do I use the same interfacings you suggested? Also, should they be fusible?

    • Pati Palmer
      December 16, 2016

      If your tapestry is pretty heavy, cut 1″ seam allowances on the sleeve and sides so that if the fabric takes up too much of the ease you can let both out. Just test your fusibles on a swatch of fabric. I think PerfectFuse Light would adhere well and give the collar and front edges just a little extra body. Have fun.

  • Pati Palmer
    December 16, 2016

    To answer Paula’s question, I have copied the introduction I wrote for the guidesheet. I think this will help explain fit for both knits and wovens which is what this pattern is designed for.

    Casual, but Edgy Pati Palmer’s Favorite Wardrobe

    I really like to wear casual comfortable clothes, but I like a little edginess added to my classics. Wear the short vest over the asymmetrical top for a modern layered look. Sew the cuffed pant in silk with self-fabric casings. Make the pant in an interlock knit and use a contrast ribbing or self fabric for the waistband and cuff. I can think of so many ideas for these pieces. I see the coat in either a ponte knit, silk suiting, or linen. For fall, I’d make the coat and pant in a solid wool with a coordinating printed silk top under the coat.

    I asked McCall’s to draft the design for both knits or wovens as even in knits, you don’t want a tight fit. Plus, you can take in side seams if you do want a tighter fit in any fabric.
    KNITS AND FIT
    A note about knits. Most of the time, you don’t want the knit to STREEEEEETCH to fit you and show every little lump and bump on your body. Fit the tissue just like you would for a woven fabric. You can always take in the side seams in fabric to make the garments more fitted if you like. That way you will never have a fit disaster! Our new book Knits For Real People is loaded with fitting and sewing tips for all types of knits.
    Happy Sewing!

  • Joan
    December 17, 2016

    Good point about the cuffed pant and bathroom in the airplane, Pati! I always have the same concern ;-}

    Thank you for the alteration options and details here. I love all your fantastic fitting and construction reference books and have had a copy of “Mother Pletsch’s Painless Sewing: with Pretty Pati’s Perfect Sewing Primer” since my mid-teens, 40+ years ago!

  • LOU
    March 1, 2017

    Love how your outfits look so polished yet comfortable. Also, really appreciate your airplane comment. For years I’ve flown in skirts (fuller/longer so I can wrap around my legs when cold) because they come up rather than down when necessary. For me, I’ll probably give the cuffed pants a pass because they make the leg look shorter and I need the opposite with a long torso and short legs. Lovely looks and great inspiration!

  • Ruth
    April 6, 2017

    Love what you have done with this pattern – the two different looks. Want to get this pattern.
    I enjoy your website!

  • corburterilio
    May 17, 2017

    Spot on with this write-up, I really assume this website needs rather more consideration. I’ll most likely be once more to learn far more, thanks for that info.

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