Pati makes McCall’s Melissa Watson Shirtdress!

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I decided to sew Melissa’s new shirtdress, McCall’s 7380. I love the hidden placket front, the shirt tail hem, and the slightly raised waist which will give less emphasis to my thicker waist. I love the Liberty cotton and though spendy, it was 58” wide.

m7380McCalls 7380 Alexa Elastic Back Shirt Dress

Of course I tissue-fitted my pattern and altered it before cutting.

pptfm2I did a small full bust adjustment, high round back, sway/flat back and added width the the side seams.

When fabric-fitting I took another 1” off the center back of the bodice to nothing at the sides. I think it is because I am not wearing the dress fitted at the waist so the straighter center back needed less length.

perfectfuse-sheer-mw

I used PerfectFuse Sheer on both the upper and under collar and on the fly front where the buttonholes would be sewn.

This collar has rounded corners so I notched them to reduce bulk when turned to the right side by trimming with pinking sheers.

The front band instructions are fabulous, except that the art is so small that it was hard to tell what was going on. If you have a printer that enlarges, you might find it helpful to enlarge the band section.

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To accommodate “turn-of-cloth” I trimmed 1/8” off both ends of the UNDER collar to make it smaller so the seam at the ends would roll under slightly. Then after turning, I slipped the UPPER collar down 1/8” in order to make sure you wouldn’t see the seam at the lower edge when the collar is worn. I basted the raw edges of the under and upper collars together to hold this positio

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I hand slipstitched the band facing to the neckline on the inside by sewing through the fold to hide the thread. I worked from the center back toward the ends.

The front ends of the band need to be exactly the same on both the right and left sides, so check them after every step. I felt it would be easier to hand slipstitch the ends than to machine top stitch. If you make sure you stitch to the neckline just below the seam and go into the fold of the band directly opposite, the stitches will disappear when you pull on the thread.

TIP! I found these sharp size 10 hand sewing needles in my stash. I needed the finest needle for this fine cotton. Usually I can’t see to thread them, but this gold eye was easy to thread. Love them!

Here is my finished dress. FYI, I added 3” to the hem.

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23 Responses
  • Peggy
    September 19, 2016

    I love this dress. It looks so comfortable and easy to throw on and feel pulled together. I can’t wait to give it a try. I love the fabric print you chose, I so tend to neutral solids. Thanks for the inspiration!

    • Pati
      September 19, 2016

      You’re welcome. I hadn’t sewn a Liberty cotton in years. The quality is amazing. They’ve added a line of printed knits that are like butter! I am looking for a print I like to make our shoulder princess sheath M7352 as a pullover dress. Will keep on looking! Pati

  • Darlene
    September 21, 2016

    Love the new dress! I will have to go get the pattern now. Great for traveling. Well done ladies.

  • Mandy Bengeyfield
    September 21, 2016

    That looks great Pati – they should have used your pic on the pattern envelope! It’s very flattering and I must admit I wasn’t particularly drawn to the pattern when I first saw it, but now I’m looking at it with fresh eyes. Beautiful fabric too – no doubt cost an arm and a leg (as we say in the UK!).

    • Barbara Eckman
      September 21, 2016

      I agree with Mandy—the dress didn’t look nearly as cute on the pattern envelope as your dress does! Yours looks awesome! I am motivated to try it now!

    • Pati Palmer
      November 20, 2016

      Thanks. This is one of the main reasons we need to sew and blog about own patterns. I really enjoy writing about the sewing. Mandy, hope you are well in the U.K.

  • Sue
    September 21, 2016

    Nice! Smart looking! Love the portrait collar, drape and fabric.
    Will be adding this pattern to my wardrobe.
    Many thanks!

  • Dianne Donker
    September 21, 2016

    I love this pattern! Thank you for your detailed hints in construction. I appreciate the professional touch.

  • Blondell
    September 21, 2016

    Love what Pati did with this pattern. The shirt dress is so hot right now. I can see styling the dress with boots too! Great job Pati

    • Pati Palmer
      November 20, 2016

      Yes, a swearwe and boots for winter! Thanks

  • Brenda Bush
    September 21, 2016

    Patty I love it! I loved the pattern when it came out but thought it might be too young for me. By lengthening and wearing with leggings like you did, I will happily get to sewing it up!

    • Pati Palmer
      November 20, 2016

      Since there are 40 years between Melissa and me, I study Melissa’s designs on me when tissue-fitting to see what changes are needed for “mom.” Thanks

  • Celeste Cornelia
    September 21, 2016

    I love this pattern. I have two of your Craftsy pattern fitting classes and don’t know how I survived fitting a pattern without them. Even after watching the classes many times I still have many questions and would love to take one of your classes in person. Is there any chance the classes would be offered in the Long Island, NY area?

    • Pati Palmer
      November 20, 2016

      I think Melissa will be doing a fit class at Workroom Social in Brooklyn. Also, take a look at our teacher listing on our website to see if there is a teacher near you. Also, check out our Philly and CT. 4-day fit workshops. You could drive to them!

  • Colleen Baerg
    September 21, 2016

    I just finished this dress and I love it. So comfortable! I wear it with leggings as well. Mine is in a rayon batik. Looks good Pati!!

    • Pati Palmer
      November 20, 2016

      Oh Colleen, I can just see you sewing it in your new studio. I hope you are still teaching there too!

  • Lou
    September 21, 2016

    I love the dress and fabric, a shirt dress is always in style, so classic! I’m looking forward to getting some fall projects going. Thanks for the inspiration.

    • Pati Palmer
      November 20, 2016

      I think Josephine’s in Portland, Or still has this 58″ Liberty print. Tell them to ask me to send them a photo to identify the print. They have my email.

  • Linda LaMona
    September 21, 2016

    Really like the look of your version! Looks good on you as well!

  • Karen
    September 22, 2016

    I agree with Mandy – I’m taking a second look. It will be perfect for some lightweight linen I couldn’t get too enthused about. thanks, Pati, for the inspiration!

  • Terri Shaver
    September 22, 2016

    I love your detailed instructions regarding construction. You certainly make me want to attempt a detailed garment. I usually stick to simple, loosely constructed knit garments. This style with the leggings is right in my wheelhouse!

  • Jona
    December 3, 2016

    Way cool! Some extremely valid points! I appreciate you writing this post
    and the rest of the site is very good.

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