I have a few nice blazers and jackets that have a double welt pocket on the inside left front of the jacket. I love this pocket detail for my valuables—when I go out without a purse, I don’t need to use the side pockets. I’ve had too many things fall from side pockets after removing my coat and laying it over a chair! I was kicking myself that I didn’t add this design feature to my overcoat pattern McCalls M7479, but this technique is very simple and you can make your own patterns pieces by following the instructions here on the blog!
Instead of using the technique from the Jackets For Real People book, which is where I first looked, I took an abbreviated version from the Sewing Ultrasuede book (which has a lot of great jacket techniques!). I did this because in the latter book there were fewer steps, it doesn’t use a pocket flap, and it didn’t have the extra step for adding the facing fabric behind the welt, since in this design I wanted to use lining fabric for the welts and the pocket bag (no need for a self fabric facing). I’m also only making one pocket (aka I don’t have to make sure it matches with an identical pocket on the opposite side) AND its on the inside.
SO, I can make adding this welt pocket detail quick, easy, and PAINLESS. 🙂
Excerpt (edited for this design) from Sewing Ultrasuede book:
“No-Fail” Double-Welt Pocket
You may have tried a method or two during your sewing life and found welt pockets far too daunting; but, although there are lots of steps, this is a NO-FAIL welt pocket! TRUST US! The key to success is accurate placement and careful stitching.
Make a TEST Welt Pocket
There are two reasons to make a test pocket. First, you can practice the steps without working up a sweat because it isn’t on your jacket! Second, since the width of the welts depends upon the thickness of the fabric, you might need to make the basting lines a little teeny tiny narrower or wider in step 9, page 72, so they fit in the box PERFECTLY!
Prepare Pocket Pieces
- Welt — For each pocket, cut a rectangle of fashion fabric 3” (7.5cm) wide and 8” (20.5cm) long. I used Perfect Pattern Paper to make my welt pattern. It especially helps for the bag lining because a regular 8.5 x 11″ piece of paper doesn’t cut it. The standard finished welt pocket is 5 1⁄2” (14cm) long. If your fabric is lightweight or soft, interface the welt with PerfectFuse Light. You can make this double-welt pocket straight or angled.
- Lining — Cut a piece of lining for the pocket bag 8” wide and 15-18” long (38-46cm).
- Stabilizer — attached to the wrong side of the jacket front under the pocket. Choose one of the following:
- Pellon stabilizer — Cut a piece of Featherweight or Midweight Pellon (not fusible) the same size as the welt. Marta uses this non-woven stabilizer.
- PerfectFuse Light — Cut as above and use in place of Pellon. Sue uses this method.
1) Mark pocket placement on the wrong side of the jacket front.
2) Draw welt box on the stabilizer. Accurate marking is the key to perfect welts. Draw two parallel lines the length of the interfacing, centered, and 1/2” apart. Then draw the end lines, making a 6” long box. NOTE: If using a fusible stabilizer, draw the lines after fusing – Step 3.
3) On WRONG SIDE of the jacket, fuse the interfacing, matching pocket placement lines.
4) From the wrong side baste stitch around the box, using a contrast color thread in the bobbin. Start and stop stitching in the center of one long side of the box. (never start stitching at the corner of the box).
5) From the right side, center the pocket bag lining over the box. The top edge of the pocket bag should be 1″ above the top line of the box.
6) On the wrong side, stitch around the box, 1.5mm stitch length especially around the corners, again starting and stopping in the center of one long side of the box and overlap those stitches.
7) Cut through center of the box, through all layers, stopping 1/2″ away from the ends; carefully clip diagonally ALL THE WAY to the corners.
8) Turn the pocket bag to the inside. Anchor on a pressing ham and do your best to make sure the pocket bag doesn’t peek out on the right side of the garment. (Note: Since I am using a brightly colored lining here, which is what the welts are made of anyway, I’m not too very worried about the lining showing; still, try your best to roll to the inside.)
9) Right sides together, machine baste through center of the two welts. Open the welts and press.
10) Use a strip of SewkeysE double sided fusible stay tape on top and bottom of box, iron down and then peel off protective paper.
11) Flip garment to right side and position the box window over the double welts you just made, iron down. Welts will stick to the wrong side of the window.
12) Edge stitch around the box on the right side, catching the welts. Remove basting between two welts.
13) On inside, bring pocket bag up to cover welt with raw edges matching; pin in place.
Finish off the edges of the pocket bag by stitching them together. Round off the corners to prevent lint from gathering there. (I didn’t do it here, but I should have! Tsk, tsk!)